Alas I cannot provide a link just yet to this novel which has been somewhat of our life for the past 24-ish hours as we departed sanitary, hygenic and surreally efficient and beautiful Queenstown for rustic and torrentially stormy Te Anau (rhymes with Keanu?). This much smaller town (with throw-back Brit-style restaurants and decor) was our stopping point so we could make it to the very well-earned destination point of Milford Sound, which was stunning!!

Our original plan was to take a self-punishing 15-hour drive-kayak-trek into this World Heritage location and, being a bit run down, I confess I felt I had some prayers answered when the rains were so bad last night that our tour was cancelled (but I must confess now I am sad as it would have been spectacular….and strangely enough, the tour company insisted on driving out here in the torrential rain at 5:50am to tell us — is the service so personal that they do not believe in cell phones? Alas I digress…). Anyhoo, we ate the 6:30am breakfast bar (Wheetabix and all) and then took the suggested alternative of driving the 2 hours to the Sound itself and doing a 2.5-hour natural tour by boat in the Sound (the only option available in today’s torrent).

A few blurbs to attempt to capture this indescribable place:

• Mountains “crying” out geyser-like waterfalls that blew back up into the mist to replenish themselves (due to the strong winds)
• Prehistoric glacial rocks imposing over the choppy waters
• 500 million years of God working His handinto the glaciers and tectonic plates to forge a astounding beauty that leaves any observer in awe of His scope and majesty, as He is at the same time, the same God that reaches into our own individual lives here and now.
• And unrelated to the Sound but related to the drive there (or anywhere): SHEEP! Everywhere….

Signing off so we can dash on to the next overpriced British meal!

Or, what Chileans nickname this seaside city of Valparaiso — thanks to the suggestion of Horatio, Alejandra’s step-dad, May and I ventured out on our own and stayed over in this beach town after Andres showed us up and down the coast (all of course after spending a fabulous evening at Casa de Rosarita y Horatio en sleepy, dreamy, heavenly Santo Domingo!).

I am in love with Valpo (as well as with Baltazar, or “Balta” as Andres’ 7.5-month old baby is affectionately called, but that is another story). It cries of integration and contrasts everywhere: of natural with manmade, of residential with commercial (which is not imposing in the least sense), of humans with animals, of colors and grays. Every angle and street and corner you turn provides a new delight to the eye. And despite the fact that it looks run down, it is incredibly safe (and thus freeing to walk about, as with most of Chile that I have experienced, regardless of economic status and quite unlike BA). Any given street will look like it is in tatters and yet boast of a beautiful gate or wrought-iron sculpture or bright-colored flower garden right in its midst.

Stunning… so get there before the current renovations are completed and the authentic feel starts to fade.

Or, “Eating Your Way Through South America”….I can definitely say God has been answering prayers for health…guess the white bread, high fat diet is what my body needs and PHEW for that!

This delicacy is popular in Argentina and Chile and has captured the hearts of me and my friend May. Along with lomo (ok, that is really May’s thing; I’m not quite there yet :), incredible FRUIT and cheeses and just about anything you eat really (oh, May also votes for submarinos purchased in the myriad of cafes in B.A.). I opted for 3-too-many cafe con leches about a week ago and have been paying for it with dehydration ever since. But not bad enough to take away from the joys of traveling in S. America…not enough time and so much to see in this land of beautiful places and people.